Getting Back in the Saddle Again

Until I read the draft of my prior post; it really didn't hit home that I haven't really gotten much sewing down in the past 14 months or so......My January wasn't very productive due to a series of devastating personal issues that bubbled up. 

 

3 Silk Fabrics purchased for me by Kate and Erik -
showing both the right and wrong sides of the weave

  But gearing up for Military History Fest 10 (I really wanted to type Reenactor Fest....) I ended up having a laundry accident and re-injuring both my shoulder and forearm and was back in a sling for 3 1/2 weeks - it sucked. But during MHF two good friends of mine saw the way I was mooning over three bolts of silk at the Vogue Fabrics Booth and on Sunday dragged me over and purchased fabric for me to create a Tudor/Elizabethan Gown - more on that later.


Well that act of generosity gave me hit the reset button for me; but I have a large pile of projects to burn through before I can create with the purple silk.  So since I was still in and out of the sling, I started by creating a basket of items to mend and got several things done including one of Mike's Tudor linen shirt, several wool sweaters and other odds and ends.  I also made up project checklists and prioritized what I wanted to do.

Back in October of 2013, a good friend of mine, Danielle, was in town and we got together with a third friend, Lisa, and had a sewing weekend. During that time I worked on fitting a American Civil War Bodice lining and also cut 2 different period corsets for the 1860's (a work corset and boned corset), and an 1880's corset.  During a different sewing afternoon with Kate in mid-February, I completed the work corset. 

Morning Wrapper in Progress

Examples of the trim I am making

I also worked on my new American Civil War morning wrapper, based off the Polonaise Traveling Dress pattern.  I finished the long seams and made the piping.  Now I have to sew the piping, sleeves, front facings and hem and I will be finished with everything but the trim, which Lisa helped me figure out and is based from Godey's Lady's book (I can't remember the year though).  I have about 10 yards of trim finished but I think I will need another 6 to 10 yards to complete the trim pattern I sketched out.

Polonaise Traveling Dress, Heidi Marsh

Work Dress

I also worked on a new camp dress for displays and fashion shows.  I took the
first American Civil War skirt I made by myself and tried to find new ways of using the fabric. I removed part of the skirt and made matching bodice and then reattached the skirt.  I don't plan on wearing it since the skirt is equivalent to 2 panels of fabric - my work dresses normally have 3 panels of fabric - so the skirt would easily bind around my legs.  I figured I had two choices, make a Bloomer dress or use the dress on a dress form to talk about work attire and/or the underpinnings of the dress.  I figured I would do the latter of the two options as I plan to wear more daywear (hoop dresses) this summer.

I also completed a set of fencing drawers for a member of the Shire of Blackhawk, along with a couple of pair of half sleeves and placket pockets to be sold at the Sanitary Fair in Galena, IL at the end of April.

 
For those of readers who are just starting sewing, I have three different methods for making a historical skirt.  Please know that these are the methods that work best for me and may not work the for everyone.

My Methods of Constructing a Historical Skirt

• Rectangle panels - This is my preferred method.  Cut the number of panels needed, sew the salvage edges as the side seams (no additional finishing stitching is required) and the cut edges are closed into the hem and waistband.
• Gored panels - This method uses a series of gores (trapezoids) that are sewn together into a large circle skirt.  It keeps the waistband from getting too bulky. The drawback I've found over the years is that since the fabric is cut on the bias the skirt tends to shrink (sometimes in circumference or in length or sometimes both) during it's use.  I recommend you purchase a pattern for making a gored skirt as there is geometry needed construct the basic shape.
• A single panel - Not recommended for outerwear but it's fine for petticoats.  Take one length of fabric that is about an inch longer than what you need for a circumference (need 144 inches, cut a length of fabric that is 145 inches).  Sew the cut edges together, finish the seam.  Either pleat or gather the fabric into a waistband and then finish the hem.

Don't forget to leave one side seam open about 6 to 8 inches from the top for a placket!  What's a placket? It's an opening that allows you to have a tight fitting waistband, but still be able to get the garment off.  I will have a future blog post that is the step by step process of making a panel skirt.

Rectangle Panel Skirt - Mid-19th Century

•  Measure the length you will need 
• Work dress - measure from the period waist (two fingers below your lowest rib) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be used either in growth pleats or the hem.
•  Day Dress - have someone else measure you in a hoop, and again measure to the floor.  The extra fabric will be taken up by the use of multiple petticoats or by the hem. 
• Modesty petticoat - measure to just below the knee, after hemming it should be just above the knee.  It can be a bit lower, say just below the knees but not much higher as it won't do it's job when you fall.
• Corded Petticoat - measure to mid-calf and add 1/2 inch for each cord you plan on sewing.  The overall finished length on 19th century petticoats varies from 33 inches to 39 inches.
• Cut the number of panels you will need for the desired circumference, below is my personal rule of thumb when purchasing fabrics for skirts:

Rectangle Panel Skirt - SCA

• Measure the length you will need  
• Tudor/Elizabethan - have someone else measure you in a farthingale, and measure from the natural waist (two fingers below the lowest rib) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be taken up by the use of multiple petticoats or by the hem.
• Italian Renaissance - measure from the period waist (bottom of the sternum) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be used either in growth pleats or the hem.
• Corded Petticoat - measure to mid-calf and add 1/2 inch for each cord you plan on sewing.  The overall finished length on 19th century petticoats varies from 33 inches to 39 inches.

• Cut the number of panels you will need for the desired circumference, below is my personal rule of thumb when purchasing fabrics for skirts:

I will have a future posts on hemming historical skirts, adding growth pleats to a work skirt and directions of pleating or gathering fabrics into a waistband and how to lay the cords for a corded petticoat.