I've been working on mostly hand sewing projects for the past 10 days or so.  I've completed all the hand work on two of my ACW projects - the Creme Work Dress and the Morning Wrapper.  I'm just pleased that my list to be completed by the end of April is getting shorter.

1. Amanda's American Civil War Day Wear (Wool Sacque, Cotton Blouse, Cap, Collar)
2. Civil War Morning Wrapper - sew the trim
3. Mike's New Armored Shirt for Western Martial Arts (cut)
4. Corded Petticoat
5. Silk Italian Renaissance Dress
6. Fix buttons on Mike's ACW Lt. Commander's Uniform, my Sharpshooter Frock, my Canvas Duster

 Amanda will be over soon so we can work on her new dress project and so far I think the look will be a good one for her.

For the next coming week I will have to set some of my lofty goals aside and work on my SCA Arts and Sciences Entry for North Oaken Regional A&S that's coming up in a few weeks.  I'm working on a small Monumental Brass, but I won't reveal the design until after the item was judged at Regional.  I'm really looking forward working on this project.  Wonder what a monumental brass is?  Take a look at this website for some basic information.

http://www.mbs-brasses.co.uk/

       I finally got smart and made myself a goal list for each month of this year to help me stay on track (and not get distracted by squirrels).  The goals for this month (well really 7 weeks since I lumped March and April together).

Stripped Silk of my new Italian Renaissance

1. Allen's Blue Fencing Breeches (DONE!)
2. Amanda's American Civil War Day Wear (Wool Sacque, Cotton Blouse, Cap, Collar)
3. Civil War Morning Wrapper
4. Complete Sanitary Commission Projects
5. Mike's New Armored Shirt for Western Martial Arts
6. Corded Petticoat
7. Civil War Creme Work Dress
8. Silk Italian Renaissance Dress (material to the left).  This is the newest addition to my to do list is already cut out.
9. Hem my Class-A Skirt.
10. Fix buttons on Mike's ACW Lt. Commander's Uniform, my Sharpshooter Frock, my Canvas Duster

There was a flurry of sewing activity this week of March 10th, 2014.  I had a nice Friday afternoon of sewing with a good friend of mine Kate and managed to strike several things off my sewing to do list listed above including:

Possible Frog Design for Amanda's Sacque Coat

Just had enough pipping for my new Morning Wrapper!

• Finally hemming the skirt of my Class-A Nursing Uniform for World War II.  
• Getting all the stitching for Amanda's Wool Sacque Coat (now it's on to sewing on the trim - possible layout of the frogs to the left).
• Completing all the machine sewing on my new Morning Wrapper (now it's to the handwork part of sewing down the hems & collar and layout/sewing of the trim).  I had to laugh at myself on how good I've become when judging how much piping I'm going to need for a dress.  For the Wrapper I piped the collar and the sleeves (both the armseye and the hem of the sleeve) and on the right was all the self piping I had when I was finished.
• I've also gotten down to the "little stuff" on the Calico work dress I mentioned in my last post.  I just have the hem left to hand stitch and she will be ready to grace my dress form.

    This week I also completed the last of my sewing projects for the Sanitary Fair in Galena at the end of next month (the sewing projects include a couple of pairs of half sleeves, several placket pockets, and 7 large cedar satchels for tent or closets).  I still have to gather and price the buttons and linens;  but overall I'm happy with the items I've completed and it will be a nice little box to send to Wendy at the beginning of next month.

I found a nice place on the web to search for Civil War Sewing Projects that I thought I would share.  This website is at the University of Vermont and was created by Hope Greenburg.  This site has not been updated since 2000 but has great images and information from Godey's Lady's Book.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/fashion/index.html

 

Getting Back in the Saddle Again

Until I read the draft of my prior post; it really didn't hit home that I haven't really gotten much sewing down in the past 14 months or so......My January wasn't very productive due to a series of devastating personal issues that bubbled up. 

 

3 Silk Fabrics purchased for me by Kate and Erik -
showing both the right and wrong sides of the weave

  But gearing up for Military History Fest 10 (I really wanted to type Reenactor Fest....) I ended up having a laundry accident and re-injuring both my shoulder and forearm and was back in a sling for 3 1/2 weeks - it sucked. But during MHF two good friends of mine saw the way I was mooning over three bolts of silk at the Vogue Fabrics Booth and on Sunday dragged me over and purchased fabric for me to create a Tudor/Elizabethan Gown - more on that later.


Well that act of generosity gave me hit the reset button for me; but I have a large pile of projects to burn through before I can create with the purple silk.  So since I was still in and out of the sling, I started by creating a basket of items to mend and got several things done including one of Mike's Tudor linen shirt, several wool sweaters and other odds and ends.  I also made up project checklists and prioritized what I wanted to do.

Back in October of 2013, a good friend of mine, Danielle, was in town and we got together with a third friend, Lisa, and had a sewing weekend. During that time I worked on fitting a American Civil War Bodice lining and also cut 2 different period corsets for the 1860's (a work corset and boned corset), and an 1880's corset.  During a different sewing afternoon with Kate in mid-February, I completed the work corset. 

Morning Wrapper in Progress

Examples of the trim I am making

I also worked on my new American Civil War morning wrapper, based off the Polonaise Traveling Dress pattern.  I finished the long seams and made the piping.  Now I have to sew the piping, sleeves, front facings and hem and I will be finished with everything but the trim, which Lisa helped me figure out and is based from Godey's Lady's book (I can't remember the year though).  I have about 10 yards of trim finished but I think I will need another 6 to 10 yards to complete the trim pattern I sketched out.

Polonaise Traveling Dress, Heidi Marsh

Work Dress

I also worked on a new camp dress for displays and fashion shows.  I took the
first American Civil War skirt I made by myself and tried to find new ways of using the fabric. I removed part of the skirt and made matching bodice and then reattached the skirt.  I don't plan on wearing it since the skirt is equivalent to 2 panels of fabric - my work dresses normally have 3 panels of fabric - so the skirt would easily bind around my legs.  I figured I had two choices, make a Bloomer dress or use the dress on a dress form to talk about work attire and/or the underpinnings of the dress.  I figured I would do the latter of the two options as I plan to wear more daywear (hoop dresses) this summer.

I also completed a set of fencing drawers for a member of the Shire of Blackhawk, along with a couple of pair of half sleeves and placket pockets to be sold at the Sanitary Fair in Galena, IL at the end of April.

 
For those of readers who are just starting sewing, I have three different methods for making a historical skirt.  Please know that these are the methods that work best for me and may not work the for everyone.

My Methods of Constructing a Historical Skirt

• Rectangle panels - This is my preferred method.  Cut the number of panels needed, sew the salvage edges as the side seams (no additional finishing stitching is required) and the cut edges are closed into the hem and waistband.
• Gored panels - This method uses a series of gores (trapezoids) that are sewn together into a large circle skirt.  It keeps the waistband from getting too bulky. The drawback I've found over the years is that since the fabric is cut on the bias the skirt tends to shrink (sometimes in circumference or in length or sometimes both) during it's use.  I recommend you purchase a pattern for making a gored skirt as there is geometry needed construct the basic shape.
• A single panel - Not recommended for outerwear but it's fine for petticoats.  Take one length of fabric that is about an inch longer than what you need for a circumference (need 144 inches, cut a length of fabric that is 145 inches).  Sew the cut edges together, finish the seam.  Either pleat or gather the fabric into a waistband and then finish the hem.

Don't forget to leave one side seam open about 6 to 8 inches from the top for a placket!  What's a placket? It's an opening that allows you to have a tight fitting waistband, but still be able to get the garment off.  I will have a future blog post that is the step by step process of making a panel skirt.

Rectangle Panel Skirt - Mid-19th Century

•  Measure the length you will need 
• Work dress - measure from the period waist (two fingers below your lowest rib) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be used either in growth pleats or the hem.
•  Day Dress - have someone else measure you in a hoop, and again measure to the floor.  The extra fabric will be taken up by the use of multiple petticoats or by the hem. 
• Modesty petticoat - measure to just below the knee, after hemming it should be just above the knee.  It can be a bit lower, say just below the knees but not much higher as it won't do it's job when you fall.
• Corded Petticoat - measure to mid-calf and add 1/2 inch for each cord you plan on sewing.  The overall finished length on 19th century petticoats varies from 33 inches to 39 inches.
• Cut the number of panels you will need for the desired circumference, below is my personal rule of thumb when purchasing fabrics for skirts:

Rectangle Panel Skirt - SCA

• Measure the length you will need  
• Tudor/Elizabethan - have someone else measure you in a farthingale, and measure from the natural waist (two fingers below the lowest rib) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be taken up by the use of multiple petticoats or by the hem.
• Italian Renaissance - measure from the period waist (bottom of the sternum) to the floor.  The extra fabric will be used either in growth pleats or the hem.
• Corded Petticoat - measure to mid-calf and add 1/2 inch for each cord you plan on sewing.  The overall finished length on 19th century petticoats varies from 33 inches to 39 inches.

• Cut the number of panels you will need for the desired circumference, below is my personal rule of thumb when purchasing fabrics for skirts:

I will have a future posts on hemming historical skirts, adding growth pleats to a work skirt and directions of pleating or gathering fabrics into a waistband and how to lay the cords for a corded petticoat.

Recap of 2013

Wow I can't believe I let this blog lag for so long. Part of the problem has been my ribs, which after much physical therapy is finally under control.  I still have "twinges" when I'm in a car for a long time and if I wear a corset for a couple of days in a row but mostly I healed that injury only to have a 8 month long battle a different injury.  On December 23, 2012,  I picked up a thin wood box weighing about a pound and heard a loud pop just below my left elbow; well it was loud to me and painful too. I think I tore a ligament in my forearm but the doctors said it was a bad case of tendonitis . So, I was in and out of a sling from mid January to mid March - and then had my arm wrapped up most days for a couple of months. Not very conducive to working on projects, typing or writing (writers note - it finally healed in October of 2013 only to be re-injured in January of 2014 - as most people @ Military History Fest 10 know it as the Laundry Incident)

Since I do dabble in many different things I thought I would write my update post by category, so here we go!

SCA - Projects entered into Arts & Sciences (A&S) Competitions

Kingdom A&S - 2012

In 2012 I entered my paternoster at the No Man's Land & Midlands Regional A&S event and I took a solid second place - which allowed me to compete in the Kingdom competition in May.  I got a chance to rewrite my documentation between Regional and took a first place at Kingdom - I was a very nice surprise indeed.

Regional A&S - 2013

For my 2013 A&S project I carved my first woodcut block. I used a photograph of my husband that I took at Raglan Castle in Wales, UK (the Kingdom of Drachenwald) and carved a fencing woodcut.  I haven't printed from the block since I was trying to learn some basic carving techniques. I took a pair of solid seconds at both Regional A&S. and Kingdom.




Steampunk Jewelry

On the Steampunk jewelry side I created several new designs and have been selling them at shows here and there.  I'm working on a couple of new Steampunk designs for my husband to draft out, but he's got a huge backlog of requests and commissions to catch up on.  He's got tons of new designs for his miniature wargaming and you can check out his store at http://www.shapeways.com/shops/arcticskunk

Sewing - Civil War

I've been working here and there on dresses for Civil War and completed three since my last post, one the blue Civil War ballgown with the handmade white trim, one for Wauconda (Lake County Civil War Days in July, 2012) - a dark print work dress aka "mud dress" and a fresh mourning mostly done for the Kenosha Civil War Museum filming in June, 2013. I also got several hand sewing projects done including two new aprons one from a light weight cotton, the other from a heavier cotton twill, a new work cap and several pairs of fancy half sleeves.  I also started to darn socks at events.

As for new projects I've started working on a new pink corset, some more half sleeves, new chemise and drawers, petticoats (over the hoop and corded), and two sheer dresses.  I also have two dresses I started several years ago;  a large print floral sheer and a cream calico work dress.

At the Midwest Civilians Conference I taught a Trim Making Workshop.  I have some of the pictures used in trhee Pinterest boards:

http://www.pinterest.com/antinasuniques/trim-workshop-garments/

 http://www.pinterest.com/antinasuniques/trim-workshop-cdv-art/

 http://www.pinterest.com/antinasuniques/trim-workshop-fashion-plates/

Sewing - SCA

On the SCA front I finished reworking and older Italian Renaissance dress that didn't fit right.  It's a nice green and cream stripe polished cotton - it fits better now and I had to do just a bit more alteration after I wore the garment at Crown Tournament this year. I've also done some handwork projects for SCA including a couple of wimples, veils and a work cap.  For my husband Michael I completed a second English Civil War Soldier's coat and a new pair of fencing breeches.

As for future projects I feel that I need a new dress and Mike needs fresh armor.  

In September of 2013 I was inducted into the Middle Kingdom's Order of the Evergreen - a grant level award that recognizes members of the the Society who both practice the Arts (or Sciences) and teach what they know to the populous. I was excited to receive this award, but do to unusual circumstances I didn't actually receive my scroll until December.  Our current Herald, Lord Michka of Blackhawk, did a great job in his presentation during out Shire's December Business meeting. Even today while writing this I get a happy little smirk thinking about it.