Victorian Fencing Fashion.
I have to confess, I've been putting off my Late Victorian Fencing Costume. Now it's crunch time and I need to have the dress completed for the Reclaiming our Heritage at the VA Medical Center in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, June 5th and 6th. This event is a multi-timeline event and we are attending as part of our American Civil War unit, The 1st United States Sharpshooters, Company C.My main goal is to complete my Late-Victorian Fencing Costume and perhaps one other dress (more on that later).
To start my project I wanted to duplicate a period plaston. According to The Sword Exercise Arranged for Military Instruction, by Henry C. Wayne and published by the US Government in 1850 (available on Google Books as a download)...
"A PLASTRON made of soft leather on the outside, of strong linen underneath, stuffed to the thickness of half and inch with hair, well quilted to keep it in place, but not so tight as to make it stiff and inflexible, for those who require more security that a jacket will afford. It should cover the breast from the throat to the waist, and be fastened by straps and buckles around the neck, back and waist."
I did some searching on the Internet and did find books and pictures/illustrations of Victorian Women in fencing attire. I drew up a pattern from these pictures.
Since I've not been able to find an original Victorian Era Plastron, I'm not sure how what weight the leather and linen are or what type of hair was used (I suspect it's horsehair). After hunting around in my fabric stash and doing some shopping I decided to use some white "Ultrasuede" I had on hand for the inside of the Plastron and machine quilted cotton fabric for the outside.
After cutting and a bit of fitting, the two parts of the garment were basted together (with the bottom left open), the shoulder straps were pinned, the basting stitch opened up and the straps inserted then restiched. Turning the garment right side out, I topstitched all of the basted seams (skipping the bottom again). The straps were tested (yes they fit 
without the need for buckles) and I moved on to the hip ties. Once those were attached, I set the garment on the dressform for a test run. I think the hip ties may have to go higher (to the waist), but right now they look to be in the correct position; according to my photos at least. Finally, I used some wide twill tape to sew the hem, leaving the ends open for an additional tie.
Now it's off to bed and tomorrow I will tackle the beige fencing skirt.
I did some searching on the Internet and did find books and pictures/illustrations of Victorian Women in fencing attire. I drew up a pattern from these pictures.
Since I've not been able to find an original Victorian Era Plastron, I'm not sure how what weight the leather and linen are or what type of hair was used (I suspect it's horsehair). After hunting around in my fabric stash and doing some shopping I decided to use some white "Ultrasuede" I had on hand for the inside of the Plastron and machine quilted cotton fabric for the outside.
After cutting and a bit of fitting, the two parts of the garment were basted together (with the bottom left open), the shoulder straps were pinned, the basting stitch opened up and the straps inserted then restiched. Turning the garment right side out, I topstitched all of the basted seams (skipping the bottom again). The straps were tested (yes they fit 
without the need for buckles) and I moved on to the hip ties. Once those were attached, I set the garment on the dressform for a test run. I think the hip ties may have to go higher (to the waist), but right now they look to be in the correct position; according to my photos at least. Finally, I used some wide twill tape to sew the hem, leaving the ends open for an additional tie.Now it's off to bed and tomorrow I will tackle the beige fencing skirt.
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